_ ) _ 3 May .
Bistritz 1
.
_ -- Left Munich 2
at 8:35 P. M. , on 1st May , arriving at Vienna 3
early next morning ; should have arrived at 6:46 , but train 4
was an hour late .
Buda-Pesth 5
seems a wonderful place 92
, from the glimpse which I 0
got of it 5
from the train 4
and the little I 0
could walk through the streets 6
.
I 0
feared to go very far from the station 7
, as we 8
had arrived late and would start as near the correct time as possible .
The impression I 0
had was that we 8
were leaving the West 9
and entering the East 10
; the most western of splendid bridges over
the Danube 12
11 , which is here of noble width and depth , took us 8
among the traditions of Turkish rule .
We 8
left in pretty good time , and came after nightfall to Klausenburgh 13
.
Here 13
I 0
stopped for the night at the Hotel Royale 14
.
I 0
had for dinner , or rather supper , a chicken done up some way with red pepper , which was very good but thirsty .
( _ Mem .
_ , get recipe for Mina 15
. )
I 0
asked the waiter 16
, and he 16
said it was called " paprika hendl , " and that , as it was a national dish , I 0
should be able to get it anywhere along the Carpathians 17
.
I 0
found my 0
smattering of German very useful here ; indeed , I 0
do n't know how I 0
should be able to get on without it .
Having had some time at my 0
disposal when in London 18
, I 0
had visited the British Museum 19
, and made search among the books and maps in the library 20
regarding Transylvania 21
; it had struck me 0
that some foreknowledge of the country 21
could hardly fail to have some importance in dealing with a nobleman of
that country 21
22 .
I 0
find that the district
he 22
named
23 is in the extreme east of
the country 21
24 , just on the borders of three states 25
, Transylvania 21
, Moldavia 26
and Bukovina 27
, in the midst of
the Carpathian mountains 17
28 ; one of the wildest and least known portions of
Europe 29
93 .
I 0
was not able to light on any map or work giving the exact locality of
the Castle Dracula 31
30 , as there are no maps of this country 21
as yet to compare with our 32
own Ordnance Survey maps ; but I 0
found that Bistritz 1
, the post town named by
Count Dracula 22
90 , is a fairly well-known place 94
.
I 0
shall enter here some of my 0
notes , as they may refresh my 0
memory when I 0
talk over my 0
travels with Mina 15
.
In the population of
Transylvania 21
33 there are four distinct nationalities : Saxons in
the South 35
34 , and mixed with them 34
the Wallachs 36
, who are the descendants of
the Dacians 37
36 ; Magyars 38
in the West 39
, and Szekelys 40
in the East 41
and North 42
.
I 0
am going among the latter 40
, who claim to be descended from Attila 43
and the Huns 44
.
This may be so , for when the Magyars 38
conquered the country 21
in the eleventh century they 38
found the Huns 44
settled in it 21
.
I 0
read that every known superstition in the world 45
is gathered into the horseshoe of the Carpathians 17
, as if it 17
were the centre of some sort of imaginative whirlpool 46
; if so my 0
stay may be very interesting .
( _ Mem .
_ , I 0
must ask the Count 22
all about them . )
I 0
did not sleep well , though my 0
bed was comfortable enough , for I 0
had all sorts of queer dreams .
There was a dog howling all night under my 0
window , which may have had something to do with it ; or it may have been the paprika , for I 0
had to drink up all the water in my 0
carafe , and was still thirsty .
Towards morning I 0
slept and was wakened by the continuous knocking at my 0
door , so I 0
guess I 0
must have been sleeping soundly then .
I 0
had for breakfast more paprika , and a sort of porridge of maize flour which they 47
said was " mamaliga , " and egg-plant stuffed with forcemeat , a very excellent dish , which they 48
call " impletata . "
( _ Mem .
_ , get recipe for this also . )
I 0
had to hurry breakfast , for the train 49
started a little before eight , or rather it ought to have done so , for after rushing to the station 7
at 7:30 I 0
had to sit in the carriage 50
for more than an hour before we 51
began to move .
It seems to me 0
that the further east you 52
go the more unpunctual are the trains 53
.
What ought they 54
to be in China 55
?
All day long we 51
seemed to dawdle through a country which was full of beauty of every kind 56
.
Sometimes we 51
saw little towns 57
or castles on
the top of steep hills 59
such as
we 60
see in old missals
58 ; sometimes we 51
ran by rivers and streams 61
which seemed from the wide stony margin on each side of them 61
to be subject to great floods .
It takes a lot of water , and running strong , to sweep the outside edge of a river clear .
At every station 62
there were , sometimes crowds 64
, and in all sorts of attire .
were just like the peasants at
home 67
66 or those
I 0
saw coming through
France 69
and
Germany 70
68 , with short jackets and round hats and home-made trousers ; but others were very picturesque .
The women 71
looked pretty , except when you 72
got near them 71
, but they 71
were very clumsy about the waist .
They 71
had all full white sleeves of some kind or other , and most of them 71
had big belts with a lot of strips of something fluttering from them like the dresses in a ballet , but of course there were petticoats under them .
The strangest figures we 51
saw were the Slovaks 73
, who were more barbarian than the rest , with their 73
big cow-boy hats , great baggy dirty-white trousers , white linen shirts , and enormous heavy leather belts , nearly a foot wide , all studded over with brass nails .
They 73
wore high boots , with their 73
trousers tucked into them , and had long black hair and heavy black moustaches .
They 73
are very picturesque , but do not look prepossessing .
On the stage they 73
would be set down at once as some old Oriental band of
brigands 74
89 .
They 73
are , however , I 0
am told , very harmless and rather wanting in natural self-assertion .
It was on the dark side of twilight when we 51
got to Bistritz 1
, which is a very interesting old place 95
.
Being practically on the frontier 75
-- for the Borgo Pass 76
leads from it 1
into Bukovina 77
-- it 1
has had a very stormy existence , and it 1
certainly shows marks of it .
Fifty years ago a series of great fires took place , which made terrible havoc on five separate occasions .
At the very beginning of the seventeenth century it 1
underwent a siege of three weeks and lost 13,000 people 78
, the casualties of war proper being assisted by famine and disease .
Count Dracula 22
had directed me 0
to go to the Golden Krone Hotel 79
, which I 0
found , to my 0
great delight , to be thoroughly old-fashioned , for of course I 0
wanted to see all I 0
could of the ways of the country 21
.
I 0
was evidently expected , for when I 0
got near the door I 0
faced a cheery-looking elderly woman 80
in the usual peasant dress -- white undergarment with long double apron , front , and back , of coloured stuff fitting almost too tight for modesty .
When I 0
came close she 80
bowed and said , " The Herr Englishman 0
? "
" Yes , " I 0
said , " Jonathan Harker 0
. "
She 80
smiled , and gave some message to an elderly man in white shirt-sleeves , who had followed
her 80
to the door
81 .
He 81
went , but immediately returned with a letter : -- " .
-- Welcome to the Carpathians 17
.
I 22
am anxiously expecting you 0
.
Sleep well to-night .
At three to-morrow the diligence will start for Bukovina 27
; a place on it is kept for you 0
.
At the Borgo Pass 76
will await you 0
and will bring you 0
to me 22
.
I 22
trust that your 0
journey from London 18
has been a happy one , and that you 0
will enjoy your 0
stay in .
" , " DRACULA 22
. "
_ 4 May .
_ -- I 0
found that had got a letter from the Count 22
, directing him 81
to secure the best place on the coach 82
for me 0
; but on making inquiries as to details he 81
seemed somewhat reticent , and pretended that he 81
could not understand my 0
German .
This could not be true , because up to then he 81
had understood it perfectly ; at least , he 81
answered my 0
questions exactly as if he 81
did .
He 81
and , the old lady who had received
me 0
91 , looked at each other in a frightened sort of way .
He 81
mumbled out that the money had been sent in a letter , and that was all he 81
knew .
When I 0
asked him 81
if he 81
knew Count Dracula 22
, and could tell me 0
anything of , both he 81
and crossed themselves 83
, and , saying that they 83
knew nothing at all , simply refused to speak further .
It was so near the time of starting that I 0
had no time to ask any one else 84
, for it was all very mysterious and not by any means comforting .
Just before I 0
was leaving , the old lady 80
came up to and said in a very hysterical way : " Must you 0
go ?
Oh !
young Herr 0
, must you 0
go ? "
She 80
was in such an excited state that she 80
seemed to have lost her 80
grip of what German she 80
knew , and mixed it all up with some other language which I 0
did not know at all .
I 0
was just able to follow her 80
by asking many questions .
When I 0
told her 80
that I 0
must go at once , and that I 0
was engaged on important business , she 80
asked again : " Do you 0
know what day it is ? "
I 0
answered that it was the fourth of May .
She 80
shook her 80
head as she 80
said again : " Oh , yes !
I 80
know that !
I 80
know that , but do you 0
know what day it is ? "
On my 0
saying that I 0
did not understand , she 80
went on : " It is the eve of St. George 86
's Day .
Do you 0
not know that to-night , when the clock strikes midnight , all the evil things in the world 45
will have full sway ?
Do you 0
know where you 0
are going , and what you 0
are going to ? "
She 80
was in such evident distress that I 0
tried to comfort her 80
, but without effect .
Finally she 80
went down on her 80
knees and implored me 0
not to go ; at least to wait a day or two before starting .
It was all very ridiculous but I 0
did not feel comfortable .
However , there was business to be done , and I 0
could allow nothing to interfere with it .
I 0
therefore tried to raise her 80
up , and said , as gravely as I 0
could , that I 0
thanked her 80
, but my 0
duty was imperative , and that I 0
must go .
She 80
then rose and dried her 80
eyes , and taking a crucifix from her 80
neck offered it to me 0
.
I 0
did not know what to do , for , as an English Churchman 0
, I 0
have been taught to regard such things as in some measure idolatrous , and yet it seemed so ungracious to refuse an old lady meaning so well and in such a state of mind 80
.
She 80
saw , I 0
suppose , the doubt in my 0
face , for she 80
put the rosary round my 0
neck , and said , " For 's sake , " and went out of the room 85
.
I 0
am writing up this part of the diary whilst I 0
am waiting for the coach 82
, which is , of course , late ; and the crucifix is still round my 0
neck .
Whether it is the old lady 80
's fear , or the many ghostly traditions of this place 21
, or the crucifix itself , I 0
do not know , but I 0
am not feeling nearly as easy in my 0
mind as usual .
If this book should ever reach Mina 15
before I 0
do , let it bring my 0
good-bye .
Here comes the coach 82
!