_ ) _ 3 May .
Bistritz 1 .
_ -- Left
Munich 2 at 8:35 P. M. , on 1st May , arriving at
Vienna 3 early next morning ; should have arrived at 6:46 , but
train 4 was an hour late .
Buda-Pesth 5 seems
a wonderful place 92 , from the glimpse which
I 0 got of
it 5 from
the train 4 and the little
I 0 could walk through
the streets 6 .
I 0 feared to go very far from
the station 7 , as
we 8 had arrived late and would start as near the correct time as possible .
I 0 had was that
we 8 were leaving
the West 9 and entering
the East 10 ;
, which is here of noble width and depth , took
the most western of splendid bridges over
the Danube 12 11
us 8 among the traditions of Turkish rule .
We 8 left in pretty good time , and came after nightfall to
Klausenburgh 13 .
I 0 stopped for the night at
the Hotel Royale 14 .
I 0 had for dinner , or rather supper , a chicken done up some way with red pepper , which was very good but thirsty .
( _ Mem .
_ , get recipe for
Mina 15 . )
I 0 asked
the waiter 16 , and
he 16 said it was called " paprika hendl , " and that , as it was a national dish ,
I 0 should be able to get it anywhere along
the Carpathians 17 .
I 0 found
my 0 smattering of German very useful here ; indeed ,
I 0 do n't know how
I 0 should be able to get on without it .
Having had some time at
my 0 disposal when in
London 18 ,
I 0 had visited
the British Museum 19 , and made search among the books and maps in
the library 20 regarding
Transylvania 21 ; it had struck
me 0 that some foreknowledge of
the country 21 could hardly fail to have some importance in dealing with
a nobleman of
that country 21 22
I 0 find that
, just on the borders of
the extreme east of
the country 21 24
three states 25 ,
Transylvania 21 ,
Moldavia 26 and
Bukovina 27 , in
the midst of
the Carpathian mountains 17 28
one of the wildest and least known portions of
Europe 29 93
I 0 was not able to light on any map or work giving
, as there are no maps of
the exact locality of
the Castle Dracula 31 30
this country 21 as yet to compare with
our 32 own Ordnance Survey maps ; but
I 0 found that
Bistritz 1 ,
the post town named by
Count Dracula 22 90
a fairly well-known place 94 .
I 0 shall enter here some of
my 0 notes , as they may refresh
my 0 memory when
I 0 talk over
my 0 travels with
Mina 15 .
there are four distinct nationalities :
the population of
Transylvania 21 33
, and mixed with
the South 35 34
the Wallachs 36 , who are
the descendants of
the Dacians 37 36
Magyars 38 in
the West 39 , and
Szekelys 40 in
the East 41 and
North 42 .
I 0 am going among
the latter 40 , who claim to be descended from
Attila 43 and the
Huns 44 .
This may be so , for when
the Magyars 38 conquered
the country 21 in the eleventh century
they 38 found
the Huns 44 settled in
it 21 .
I 0 read that every known superstition in
the world 45 is gathered into the horseshoe of
the Carpathians 17 , as if
it 17 were
the centre of some sort of imaginative whirlpool 46 ; if so
my 0 stay may be very interesting .
( _ Mem .
I 0 must ask
the Count 22 all about them . )
I 0 did not sleep well , though
my 0 bed was comfortable enough , for
I 0 had all sorts of queer dreams .
There was a dog howling all night under
my 0 window , which may have had something to do with it ; or it may have been the paprika , for
I 0 had to drink up all the water in
my 0 carafe , and was still thirsty .
I 0 slept and was wakened by the continuous knocking at
my 0 door , so
I 0 guess
I 0 must have been sleeping soundly then .
I 0 had for breakfast more paprika , and a sort of porridge of maize flour which
they 47 said was " mamaliga , " and egg-plant stuffed with forcemeat , a very excellent dish , which
they 48 call " impletata . "
( _ Mem .
_ , get recipe for this also . )
I 0 had to hurry breakfast , for
the train 49 started a little before eight , or rather it ought to have done so , for after rushing to
the station 7 at 7:30
I 0 had to sit in
the carriage 50 for more than an hour before
we 51 began to move .
It seems to
me 0 that the further east
you 52 go the more unpunctual are
the trains 53 .
they 54 to be in
China 55 ?
All day long
we 51 seemed to dawdle through
a country which was full of beauty of every kind 56 .
we 51 saw
little towns 57 or
the top of steep hills 59
see in old missals 58
we 51 ran by
rivers and streams 61 which seemed from the wide stony margin on each side of
them 61 to be subject to great floods .
It takes a lot of water , and running strong , to sweep the outside edge of a river clear .
every station 62 there were , sometimes
crowds 64 , and in all sorts of attire .
were just like
the peasants at
home 67 66
, with short jackets and round hats and home-made trousers ; but others were very picturesque .
saw coming through
Germany 70 68
The women 71 looked pretty , except when
you 72 got near
them 71 , but
they 71 were very clumsy about the waist .
They 71 had all full white sleeves of some kind or other , and most of
them 71 had big belts with a lot of strips of something fluttering from them like the dresses in a ballet , but of course there were petticoats under them .
The strangest figures
we 51 saw were
the Slovaks 73 , who were more barbarian than the rest , with
their 73 big cow-boy hats , great baggy dirty-white trousers , white linen shirts , and enormous heavy leather belts , nearly a foot wide , all studded over with brass nails .
They 73 wore high boots , with
their 73 trousers tucked into them , and had long black hair and heavy black moustaches .
They 73 are very picturesque , but do not look prepossessing .
On the stage
they 73 would be set down at once as
some old Oriental band of
brigands 74 89
They 73 are , however ,
I 0 am told , very harmless and rather wanting in natural self-assertion .
It was on the dark side of twilight when
we 51 got to
Bistritz 1 , which is
a very interesting old place 95 .
Being practically on
the frontier 75 -- for
the Borgo Pass 76 leads from
it 1 into
Bukovina 77 --
it 1 has had a very stormy existence , and
it 1 certainly shows marks of it .
Fifty years ago a series of great fires took place , which made terrible havoc on five separate occasions .
At the very beginning of the seventeenth century
it 1 underwent a siege of three weeks and lost
13,000 people 78 , the casualties of war proper being assisted by famine and disease .
Count Dracula 22 had directed
me 0 to go to
the Golden Krone Hotel 79 , which
I 0 found , to
my 0 great delight , to be thoroughly old-fashioned , for of course
I 0 wanted to see all
I 0 could of the ways of
the country 21 .
I 0 was evidently expected , for when
I 0 got near the door
I 0 faced
a cheery-looking elderly woman 80 in the usual peasant dress -- white undergarment with long double apron , front , and back , of coloured stuff fitting almost too tight for modesty .
I 0 came close
she 80 bowed and said , "
The Herr Englishman 0 ? "
" Yes , "
I 0 said , "
Jonathan Harker 0 . "
She 80 smiled , and gave some message to
an elderly man in white shirt-sleeves , who had followed
to the door 81
He 81 went , but immediately returned with a letter : -- " .
-- Welcome to
the Carpathians 17 .
I 22 am anxiously expecting
you 0 .
Sleep well to-night .
At three to-morrow the diligence will start for
Bukovina 27 ; a place on it is kept for
you 0 .
the Borgo Pass 76 will await
you 0 and will bring
you 0 to
me 22 .
I 22 trust that
your 0 journey from
London 18 has been a happy one , and that
you 0 will enjoy
your 0 stay in .
" , "
DRACULA 22 . "
_ 4 May .
I 0 found that had got a letter from
the Count 22 , directing
him 81 to secure the best place on
the coach 82 for
me 0 ; but on making inquiries as to details
he 81 seemed somewhat reticent , and pretended that
he 81 could not understand
my 0 German .
This could not be true , because up to then
he 81 had understood it perfectly ; at least ,
he 81 answered
my 0 questions exactly as if
he 81 did .
He 81 and ,
, looked at each other in a frightened sort of way .
the old lady who had received
me 0 91
He 81 mumbled out that the money had been sent in a letter , and that was all
he 81 knew .
I 0 asked
him 81 if
he 81 knew
Count Dracula 22 , and could tell
me 0 anything of , both
he 81 and crossed
themselves 83 , and , saying that
they 83 knew nothing at all , simply refused to speak further .
It was so near the time of starting that
I 0 had no time to ask
any one else 84 , for it was all very mysterious and not by any means comforting .
I 0 was leaving ,
the old lady 80 came up to and said in a very hysterical way : " Must
you 0 go ?
young Herr 0 , must
you 0 go ? "
She 80 was in such an excited state that
she 80 seemed to have lost
her 80 grip of what German
she 80 knew , and mixed it all up with some other language which
I 0 did not know at all .
I 0 was just able to follow
her 80 by asking many questions .
I 0 told
her 80 that
I 0 must go at once , and that
I 0 was engaged on important business ,
she 80 asked again : " Do
you 0 know what day it is ? "
I 0 answered that it was the fourth of May .
She 80 shook
her 80 head as
she 80 said again : " Oh , yes !
I 80 know that !
I 80 know that , but do
you 0 know what day it is ? "
my 0 saying that
I 0 did not understand ,
she 80 went on : " It is the eve of
St. George 86 's Day .
you 0 not know that to-night , when the clock strikes midnight , all the evil things in
the world 45 will have full sway ?
you 0 know where
you 0 are going , and what
you 0 are going to ? "
She 80 was in such evident distress that
I 0 tried to comfort
her 80 , but without effect .
she 80 went down on
her 80 knees and implored
me 0 not to go ; at least to wait a day or two before starting .
It was all very ridiculous but
I 0 did not feel comfortable .
However , there was business to be done , and
I 0 could allow nothing to interfere with it .
I 0 therefore tried to raise
her 80 up , and said , as gravely as
I 0 could , that
I 0 thanked
her 80 , but
my 0 duty was imperative , and that
I 0 must go .
She 80 then rose and dried
her 80 eyes , and taking a crucifix from
her 80 neck offered it to
me 0 .
I 0 did not know what to do , for , as
an English Churchman 0 ,
I 0 have been taught to regard such things as in some measure idolatrous , and yet it seemed so ungracious to refuse
an old lady meaning so well and in such a state of mind 80 .
She 80 saw ,
I 0 suppose , the doubt in
my 0 face , for
she 80 put the rosary round
my 0 neck , and said , " For 's sake , " and went out of
the room 85 .
I 0 am writing up this part of the diary whilst
I 0 am waiting for
the coach 82 , which is , of course , late ; and the crucifix is still round
my 0 neck .
Whether it is
the old lady 80 's fear , or the many ghostly traditions of
this place 21 , or the crucifix itself ,
I 0 do not know , but
I 0 am not feeling nearly as easy in
my 0 mind as usual .
If this book should ever reach
Mina 15 before
I 0 do , let it bring
my 0 good-bye .
the coach 82 !